Exploring Thailand, The Land of Smiles

By Sashi Ohara

When I was 22 years old and fresh out of college, I decided to move to Thailand, otherwise known as the land of smiles. Fast forward to New Years Eve of that year, I sat down, registered for my TEFL course, and began the following weekend. Three weekends and a 100 hour online course later, I was certified to teach English as a second language anywhere in the world. A couple of weeks after, I was employed and heading out to my new home. I had always wanted to travel to Thailand after hearing all of the amazing stories my dad would tell me. But, traveling to a country, and living in a country, are two very different experiences. Having being a part of Thailand’s culture and experiencing every day life for a year made my trip back that much better. Who would have thought the little bit of Thai I had learned would have come in handy again in life? Well, it did, and I nailed it. Three years after returning to New York, I finally made my way back to my second home.

I lived in a city called, Hat Yai, located about two hours away from the border of Malaysia. Even though it’s considered the third largest city in Thailand, there were only about 200 expats living there. About 40 were in their 20’s, the others were older, married, and settled. These odds made the chances of spotting a Farang (white person) while walking around the grocery store very slim. Those odds also made the chances very high of being stared down whenever out in public. My mornings at school consisted of watching the students sing the King’s song followed by an early morning aerobics routine choreographed to Gangum Style. You were required to stand while an ode to the King flashed on the screen before the only English movie played in the cinema. Showing people the bottom of your feet or using your foot to point was considered extremely offensive. Riding on the back of a motorbike sitting side saddled because I was wearing a skirt was considered appropriate and normal. These are just a few little excerpts from my daily life in Thailand.

Traveling Thailand, on the other hand, is an amazing experience in its’ own way. To start, Thailand is HUGE. If you want to explore this country in its’ full capacity in one go, I would give yourself at least 3-6 months. If you don’t have this kind of time on your hands then I would suggest at least 10 days, with a focus on 1-3 locations. Having these beautiful destinations just a hop, skip, and jump away was definitely a huge bonus to living there. On long weekends, my friends and I would choose a location close to the city we lived in and take off. During the longer breaks, I went to places that were further away and not as convenient to get to. In order to get from the tip of Southern Thailand to Chiang Mai in the North, I had to take two over night train rides, with a day in between to kill in Bangkok.

Now I hope this helps you understand how large this country really is. If you’re the type of person who prefers to see more in one trip, I would suggest heading straight south for some island hopping. If you’d like to experience a mix of two worlds, I would suggest one area in the south and one area in the north. Wether you’re lounging in a hammock strapped up between two bungalows, on a fancy lounge chair over looking the Andaman Sea, caring for elephants, you won’t be left disappointed. If I can promise you one thing about Thailand, it’s that the Thais know tourism. They know how to create the perfect ambiance that the traveller is seeking, which truly makes Thailand a magical place.

Typical Costs in Thailand

Food:

  • Street Food: 10-80 Baht
  • Restaurants: 100-500 Baht
  • Beer: in 7-11 30 baht, at restaurants and bars 60-100 baht
  • Water: 20 baht

Accommodation:

  • Hostels: 250-600 Baht / night
  • Hotels: 600-3,500 Baht / night (3,500 Baht and up = luxury life)

Transportation:

  • Taxis car taxis throughout larger cities like Bangkok are less expensive than taking a tuk tuk. Make sure you request the meter.
  • Tuk Tuks typical mode of transportation throughout Thailand except in larger cities like Bangkok where you can choose between tuk tuks or cars. Easy to negotiate the price, but if you’re going local it should range between 30 Baht 100 Baht.
  • Motorbike Taxis Also, very common throughout Thailand. Sometimes can be slightly pricier than tuk tuks, but not as convenient if you’re with 2 or more people.

Getting Around Thailand

Trains Overnight trains are a really great experience and I highly recommend you to try it at least once if it fits into your itinerary. They’re easy to book through travel agents located all over Thailand, and also can be done on your own at the local train stations. This is not the cheapest option, but definitely a fun one!

Busses By far the least expensive and most available way of transportation to get around in Thailand. The overnight busses aren’t the most comfortable as you’re in a reclining seat through the night, but it does the trick! Highly recommend a neck pillow, socks, and something to cover you with. They tend to keep these busses highly air conditioned.

Mini Vans If you are prone to car sickness or claustrophobia, try to tell the driver as best as you can so they might let you sit in the front seat. You won’t regret sitting up there! They tend to drive very fast and not go by the rules of the road. Buckle up!

Flying The fastest way to get you from point A to point B, and it won’t cost you a leg and an arm!

Bangkok

This massive city provides an abundance of things to do, if you’re willing to be outside in the heat to do it! Bangkok can be unruly hot, but lots of fun. With a mixture of markets, restaurants, nightlife, temples, and museums, your days will be stocked full! Most people either love or hate Bangkok. I personally loved it and could have seen myself living there when I was teaching. The city itself is very modern and trendy. You can find hotels and hostels ranging in price points that make it easy for any type of traveler to visit. Bangkok is huge! There are many different neighborhoods to explore depending on what you’re looking for. This city is for everybody!

Things to do in Bangkok

Chatuchak Weekend Market:

This weekend market that takes place every Saturday and Sunday will keep you busy the entire day, if you let it. They have everything you can think of, from lawn chairs to clothing, from art to kittens, from hair bows to fried bugs. You name it, they most likely have it there. There are food stalls all over as well. Best time to go is early in the morning when they open at 9am before it gets too hot, and then sit down for a delicious lunch to cool off.

Floating Markets:

If you have the time in Bangkok, I’d definitely suggest this! It’s a great way to fill your day to see this style of market. I held off on making any purchases because item prices tend to be higher, but grab a bowl of noodle soup from one of the boats and take in your surroundings! The tour will also include a long tail boat ride through the village the market is attached to.

  • Cost: 1,000-1,200 Baht for the day

Temples :

  • Wat Pho: Also known as the Lying Buddha 100 Baht
  • Wat Arun: Almost directly opposite Wat Pho across the river. From Sapphan Taksin boat pier you can take a river boat that stops at pier 8. From here, a small shuttle boat takes you from one side of the river to the other for only 3 baht. Entry to the temple is 100 baht.
  • Dress Code: Cannot enter the temples if you are wearing short pants, short skirts, or sleeveless shirts unless if you have a scarf to cover your shoulders.

Grand Palace & Wat Phra Kiew:

  • The Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kiew are located on the same grounds. One admission price will get you to two beautiful sites.
  • Dress Code: Cannot enter the temples short pants, short skirts, or sleeveless t-shirts. Sarongs are for rent at the entrance, but better dress appropriately to avoid the queue.
  • Cost: 500 Baht

Khao San Road:

The infamous Khao San Road is the backpacker’s haven – full of loud music, towers of beer, buckets of liquor, shops, and cheap hostels & hotels. I’ve now been to Bangkok 5 times and always find myself right back here. I prefer to stay close to this area since it is close to the temples, river boat taxi, and has plenty of shops and restaurants. It is a bit further from other areas of Bangkok, but there are plenty of taxis around to take you wherever you’d like to go!

Sky Bar Rooftop at Lebua:

This rooftop has become a bit of a novelty, thanks to the Hangover 2, which was filmed in this exact spot. The beautiful views of the city from the rooftop makes it worth to go to alone. Treat yo-self to a drink and soak it in!

  • What to Wear: Men should wear pants, closed toe shoes, and a button down. Women cannot wear shorts. They should wear a dress or skirt with a nice blouse.
  • Cost: Drinks are very pricey – $$$$

Ayutthaya

Once the capitol of Thailand, years and years ago, it is definitely up there with must see cities. Conveniently located a couple of hours away from Bangkok, it makes for a great day trip. Filled with beautiful temples and ruins, this place will leave you in awe. The day trip consists of a round trip to/from Bangkok, lunch, and a knowledgable tour guide there to stuff you full of history.

Day Tour Cost: 500 Baht

Chiang Mai

Temples, temples, temples. Three things Chiang Mai does not lack. This beautiful city located in Northern Thailand is a great destination if you’re looking for some hill tribe trekking and Elephant hangs!

Things to Do in Chiang Mai

Temples:

  • Wat Chiedi Luang
  • Wat Phra Singh
  • Wat Pan Tao
  • Wat Phra That Doi Suthep
  • Dress Code: Cannot enter the temples if you are wearing short pants, short skirts, or sleeveless shirts unless if you have a scarf to cover your shoulders.

Trekking:

These treks come with all different types of activities, but many include walking through the jungle to a hill tribe village and some elephant care. If you’re a hiker this is for you!

Cost:

1 Day Treks: 1,000-1,300 Baht

2 Day Treks: 1,500-2,000 Baht

3 Day Treks: 1,600-2,500 Baht

 

Elephant Sanctuaries:

Hang with amazing elephants for a day! Learn to bathe, feed, and play with these beautiful creatures.

Cost: 2,000-3,000 Baht

Chiang Mai Zoo:

Never seen a panda in person? Well, they have some really cute ones here! This zoo is massive and has some amazing exhibits that really show how much they care for their animals. Great for kids and adults!

  • Cost: 150 Baht

Chiang Mai Night Bazaar:

One of the city’s main night-time attraction that everybody can enjoy. They have everything from shopping to good eats.

Krabi

Krabi province is definitely up there with one of my favorite places to go to in Thailand. When people ask me where to go when visiting and they can’t squeeze it all in, I always say Krabi. In my opinion, I think it has it all. Beautiful temples, elephants, amazing beaches, snorkeling, island hopping. What’s not to like about this place? It also has an airport which makes it more appealing for travelers with not a lot of time to spare.

Areas of Krabi to Visit

Ao Nang:

This is where the beach meets the night life meets adventure. Ao Nang is a base point in Krabi, if you’re not up for moving around. From here, you can take day trips to see the hot springs, blue pool, emerald pool, and some beautiful temples. It also has a great beach where you can grab a beer and watch the beautiful sunset. There are plenty bars, restaurants, hotels, and hostels. It is also a great base to go island hopping from and enjoy snorkeling.

Railay:

Railay is much quieter than Ao Nang, but has absolutely stunning beaches. Its good for rock climbing, beach hangs, gorgeous limestone cliffs and reggae style night life. Phra Nang Cave, also known as the “Penis Cave”, is a popular place to check out. Its a shrine dedicated to a goddess that is meant to bring luck out at sea. This beach is also considered one of the most beautiful strips of sand in the world!

  • How to get here from Ao Nang: Pay 100 Baht for a long tail boat ride and there you go, you’re there!
  • Great place to rent a kayak and explore for a few hours! Price is by the hour.

Tonsai:

  • Good for Beaches and Climbing
  • How to get here from Ao Nang: Pay 100 Baht for a long tail boat ride and there you go, you’re there!

Tours Around Krabi

(KRABI 2,CHICKEN ISLAND, ISLAND TOUR, TONSAI,BLUE POOL,SNORKELERS)

Emerald Pool, Blue Pool, Tiger Cave:

Cost: 800-1,250 Baht

4 Island Tour :

This is a popular day trip from Ao Nang, as you get to explore some beautiful islands all in one shot! The four islands are Koh Poda, Koh Gai (Chicken Island), Koh Tub and Koh Mor. The tour also stops off at the beautiful Phra Nang Cave Beach on the Railay. It includes lunch, water, and some delicious fruit!

  Cost: 500-1,000 Baht

Day Trip To Koh Phi Phi & Snorkeling :

This tour makes its’ rounds to Maya Bay, Bamboo Island, Viking Cave, Monkey Island, and Koh Phi Phi. In between a few of these places, you get to stop at some beautiful snorkeling spots and swim around with the fish! It includes lunch, water, and some delicious fruit!

  • Cost: 1,800-2,200 Baht

Koh Lanta

(KOH LANTA 1-3)

This is your island, if you like fun days and mellow nights. There is the opportunity to do snorkeling, scuba diving, island hopping, cave exploring and more! I went to this island to celebrate the Buddhist New Year, Songkran, and had an amazing time. There are some great bars and restaurants around the island, but you will need to ride a motorbike or call a taxi to get around.

Things to Do in Koh Lanta

Rent a Motorbike and Explore:

This was such a great thing to do. Koh Lanta’s roads are paved and easy to drive on. With all of it’s beautiful nature, I was very happy that my friends and I rented bikes to drive around the island. We stopped along the way when we saw something interesting, otherwise we just cruised around! Great way to get your bearings.

Scuba Diving:

Either head under water for an Adventure Dive where you do not need to be certified, or become a certified diver and go for multiple days!

  • Cost: 4,000-9,000 Baht

Cave Exploring:

Climb down into the abyss of the unknown! Just kidding, you go with a guide who takes you down a rickety ladder carefully and walks you through this beautiful cave. The whole thing takes about 20 minutes to walk through, but the hike to and from will make this whole tour about 2 hours. Definitely worth it!

  • Cost: 300-800 Baht

Koh Lanta Old Town:

The Old Town is located on Koh Lanta’s east coast. This quaint, and quiet part of the island has some cute shops and restaurants.

Khao Sok National Park 3 Days, 2 Nights

Cost: 4,300-5,000 Baht

I absolutely loved this. This price includes 1 night stay in a hotel, 1 night stay in a lake bungalow, food for 2 days, day and night long tail boat cruises, a hike, cave exploring over two days and all transportation. The first day we had to ourselves.

Our hotel was located close to the national park where you have the day to explore on your own, and you’re responsible to pay for you own food. The following morning we were picked up bright and early to head further into Khao Sok National Park with our group.

We then hopped on a long tail boat that took us through what looked like the set for Jurassic Park. This massive lake was a gorgeous turquoise color that had limestone cliffs darting out all over. Our accommodation for that night were tiny little bungalows located on the water. Really really cool. Like real life Water World. After having some time to swim and relax, we were taken on a really amazing hike that led to a cave where we had water up to our necks at times! They fed us a delicious dinner, that was followed by drinks and a night time long tail boat, which was then followed by more drinks and some late night swimming. All in all, one of my favorite days! The next day we said bye to our little Water World and made our way to the next cave adventure. This day was also amazing, filled with hiking, good food, and relaxation. All in all, I definitely think if you have the time this should definitely be a place you stop at along the way!

Koh Tao

Koh Tao is tiny, mountainous, and absolutely one of my favorite islands in Thailand. It was always an island I wanted to visit, and when I went back to travel, I finally made it! I spent about 6 days on this island to get my scuba certification and had such an amazing time here. The island is so so beautiful. It has gorgeous beaches that have some of the best snorkeling right off the shore. But, please keep in mind, do not rent a motorbike unless you are experienced driver. A majority of the roads are all dirt paths and aren’t safe to drive a scooter on. There are plenty of taxis around the island and any hostel/ hotel will be able to help organize for you!

Things to do in Koh Tao

Become a Certified Diver:

The Open Water certificate allows you to dive 18 meters (60 feet) any where in the world without a guide, as long as you bring your card or proof that you are certified. You will always need a buddy and if you were to do this on your own, they will make sure you’re set! This was one of the best things I spent my money on while I was traveling. It’s something I’m able to walk away with and have for the rest of my life! Koh Tao is known for being one of the best, and least expensive places to get certified. With it’s easy dives sites, clear waters, and low currents, it makes for a great first experience! The total cost includes 3 full days of diving school – skill training in a pool, in class lectures for theory, 4 dives, and 4 nights in a hotel. I did my dive certification through Ban’s which was huge! Seems like they own most of the strip on Sairee Beach. Aside from Ban’s, I’ve heard great things about Sairee Cottage Diving School. Seemed like Sairee was more low key and had smaller groups, if that’s what you’re looking for!

  • Cost: 9,000 – 10,000 Baht for your Open Water certificate

Snorkeling Tour Around the Island:

One of the best ways to get around the island is by boat. It also gives you the opportunity to admire this pretty island from the water! There are many snorkeling locations and with a limited amount of time on the island, this is the best way to explore them all! Most day trips include snorkeling gear, lunch, a snack, and transportation to the best snorkeling spots! Definitely a must do on Koh Tao.

  • Cost: 500-1,000 Baht

Koh Nang Yuan:

Cost: Take a longtail boat for 200 baht round trip off of Sairee Beach. By far the cheapest and easiest way to get to the island. Once you arrive to the island, you have to pay an additional 100 Baht fee as it’s a national park. The island has some of the best beaches, snorkeling, and views. A day trip here is a must!

Enjoy the Beaches:

  • How Leuk Bay
  • Ao Tanot Bay
  • Sai Nuan Beach
  • Shark Bay
  • Rocky Bay
  • Hin Wong Bay

Sairee Beach:

This is the more popular and lively side of the island. With a close walk into the town, it has a great mix of beach life, hotels & hostels, restaurants, night life, and shopping!

Natural High Cafe:

If you’re staying on Sairee Beach, walk a little bit towards town to find yourself a taxi to drive you here. One way should be 100 baht per person. It is a beautiful tree house style bar/restaurant with great food, special treats & shakes, mountain views, and drinks! Get here early before the speak shakes run dry and to see an epic sunset!

Koh Samui

Good for beaches, night life, and shopping. Can stay here to enjoy a full moon party. So popular, it even has its’ own airport on the island. People fly from all over the world just to come to this one place! In my eyes, there are so many more beautiful islands in Thailand, but Koh Samui is really accommodating and is very beautiful too!

Things to do in Koh Samui

Big Buddha Temple / Wat Phra Yai:

  • The Big Buddha Temple is near the airport, on Koh Samui’s north-east coast.
  • What to Wear: Be sure to wear shirts or scarves that cover the shoulders, trousers or long shorts, and no beachwear when visiting the Big Buddha temple.

Cooking Class:

Take the day to learn how to cook some of your favorite Thai dishes! Most classes involve going to the market, learning what the best produce and spices are for Thai cuisine, and making 3-4 dishes!

Cost: 1,500-2,000 Baht

Kayak Tour:

One of the best Kayaking Day Tours in Koh Samui is undoubtedly the sea kayaking adventure in Ang Thong National Park. You get to explore a cluster of islands and delve into hidden lagoons and caves. Most tours include breakfast, lunch, a snack, and transportation to/from your hotel.

Cost: 2,000-4,000 Baht

Nightlife Spots:

Koh Samui definitely does not lack in the nightlife department. Chaweng and Lamai beach are most popular for nightlife as the streets and beaches are loaded with great spots!

  • Soi Green Mango (Chaweng Beach)
  • Soi Reggae (Chaweng Beach)
  • Lamai Central Plaza (Lamai Beach)
  • Ark Bar (Chaweng Beach) – My personal favorite located on the beach
  • Swing Bar (Lamai Beach)
  • See a Muay Thai fight (Chaweng Beach)

Koh Pha-Ngan

Another beautiful island located in Southern Thailand. Made famous by its’ hippy vibes and famous Full Moon Party, this island caters to budget travelers and beach bums. It’s more rustic than Koh Samui making the beaches less crowded and more fun for exploring.

Things to do in Koh Pha-Ngan

Full Moon Party:

This party happens once a month and is located on Haad Rin. If you’re interested in going to this and want to plan your trip around the party, it’s very easy to find the dates listed on the Full Moon Party website. The website also shows Half Moon parties and other local shenanigans happening around Koh Pha-Ngan! If you’re interested in making it to one of the full moon parties, I highly suggest booking accommodation on Koh Pha-Ngan in advance. There is also the option of traveling from Koh Samui to Koh Pha-Ngan to get to the party, but I would recommend just staying on the island. The late night ferries tend to get extremely crowded (and unsafely) to the point where people just decide to stay on the beach until sunrise.

  • Cost: 100 Baht per person

Enjoy the Beaches:

  • Bottle Beach
  • Haad Yao
  • Haad Salad
  • Thong Nai Pan
  • Haad Rin
  • Haad Yuan

Koh Lipe

This is one of my favorite places in Thailand. Koh Lipe is a tiny little island located off the West coast of Southern Thailand off of Satun Province. It’s much further south than the other islands, but definitely does not lack in character. You can walk around the whole island in one day. I’ve now been to this island 5 times and each time I love it even more. The island is full of delicious restaurants, laid back reggae style bars, adorable shops, and some of the best beach bungalows. Make sure to go to Koh Lipe during Peak season as this is one of the islands that has a majority sut down during the Low season. The ferries and speed boats from Pak Bara Pier cost 500 Baht one way, and that does not include the additional National Park fees to get on the island. Luckily as a teacher, I was able to waive a large portion of the fee by using my work permit. This is an island to go to if you enjoy lazy days in the sun on the beach, swimming in the most crystal clear blue water, and making the difficult decision between eating a Thai pancake, drinking a refreshing smoothie, or getting a Thai massage.

Things to do in Koh Lipe

Enjoy the Beaches:

  • Sunrise Beach – A quiet beach lined with bungalows, a few restaurants, and one or two bars.
  • Sunset Beach – Known for it’s name, this is where you want to be at sunset! Grab a few beers and hang out on this beach to see one of the most epic sunsets.
  • Pattaya Beach – Has some more of the pricier and larger resorts. The beach is lined with bars and restaurants and is the place to be for nightlife!

Walking Street:

Walking street, runs from Sunrise beach all the way to Pattaya beach. It’s lined with everything you need – restaurants, bars, clothing shops, gift shops, convenience shops, and a 7-11. Everything you need you can find here!

Scuba Diving:

Sign up with one of the multiple diving companies in Koh Lipe to enjoy the visibility in these crystal clear waters! All of the diving companies have great reputations.

  • Cost: 3,000 – 3,500/day

Sunset Snorkel Tour:

This half day sunset trip runs from 1pm- 8pm. Most tours visit 3 different places for snorkeling. When the sun begins to set, they bring you to an empty beach on Koh Lipe for a delicious BBQ dinner while watching the sun set. On the way back to your final destination, they stop for a night swim to see bioluminescent plankton. Amazing experience!!

  • Cost: 900-1,000 Baht per person

Random and Helpful Tips

  • Visas upon arrival:
    • 30 days given upon arrival into a international airport for all
    • 30 days upon entering by land for only USA, Canada, UK, France, Germany, Italy.
    • 15 days upon entering by land for everybody else
  • Currency: Baht
  • If you’re interested in learning the language (which you should!) ‘Ka’ is for women and ‘Krup’ (pronounced cup) is for men
  • ‘Sawadee-ka/krup’ = Hello, ‘Tao Rai’ = How Much? – use these and learn numbers!
  • The summer time is monsoon season, which means lots of rain and flooding can occur.
  • Bring appropriate garments for entering temples.
  • Meet with a doctor prior to going to Thailand if you feel like you will need malaria pills, especially if you go to Northern Thailand.
  • Make sure you mark where you’re staying, and always carry around a business card from them to give to any taxi driver to avoid being lost in translation.
  • Drugs are a serious offense in Thailand. It’s no joke. They will put you in prison without hesitation. If you go to any of the full moon parties, just be smart.
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Travel Guide: Cambodia

By Sashi Ohara