Travel Guide: Positano, Italy
By: Dominika Trzaska, The Blonde Flamingo
John Steinbeck once said, “Positano bites deep. It is a dream place that isn’t quite real when you are there and becomes beckoningly real after you have gone.” Honestly I couldn’t agree more. From the first glance at Positano , you will have to pinch yourself to make sure you’re not actually dreaming and have a packet of tissues with you as believe me this place will bring tears of joy into your eyes. Everything you’ve heard and everything you’ve seen in photographs, magazines and movies do not justice. This place is just breathtaking, beautiful and truly unforgettable. Every second feels unreal and every turn brings something new and exciting into view.
LOCATION
Positano is a cliffside village located on southern Italy’s Amalfi Coast.
HOW TO GET THERE
There are 2 ways to get to Positano – by land or by water after you arrive at the closest airport which is Naples.
BY CAR: before renting a car in Italy be aware of Italian way of driving. For those who has been driving around Italy already I guess I do not need to explain how insane it is, but for the first timers- be prepared for all crazy motorbikes, scooters and massive trucks and buses overtaking your car on super tiny, narrow two-lined roads. I would definitely not recommend this ride to amateur drivers as there are many twists and turns and one small mistake can lead to a tragic accident. Also if you suffering from car sickness is not the best idea- if you do decide to do it anyway don’t forget to take the travel gum – believe me I know exactly what I am saying!
If you’re brave enough, apart from the scary drive you will get to experience the most beautiful views over the Amalfi Coast. The drive usually takes around 1,5 hours- depending on the traffic. The best thing to do would be getting up and driving early in the morning before the tourist buses will take over the road.
PARKING: If you’re planning a day trip to Positano be prepared for quite expensive parking. If you park your car at the very ‘begging’ of Positano the price is 3 EURO per hour – little tip here – have change on you as you need to pay for the parking in advance and the machine only accept the coins. If you wish to park your car closer to the centre the price is 5 EURO per hour ( after 5 hours they do not charge you anymore). I also heard that in a high season ( June- August) is better to book a parking space in advance.
BY BOAT: Firstly you need to know there are no direct ferry connections from Naples to any Amalfi Coast destination- if traveling from Naples you need to change in Sorrento. Check how the boats are running before planning the trip as the ferry options are very limited from Mid September until April/May. For the tickets and prices have a look at Alilauro.
PRIVATE TRANSFERS: if your budget is not a problem there are also many companies offering private transfers to Positano directly from the airport (either Napoli or Rome) by sedan, minivan or even a limousine with a driver and luggage transfer to your hotel. A service like that may cost even up to 450 euros per couple.
WHERE TO STAY?
I swear the list here would be absolutely never-ending. Every single hotel or guest house I’ve passed was simply gorgeous. However you need to know that Positano is also a favorite spot of celebrities so believe me – it’s super expensive. The apartment with the view for Amalfi Coast can cost you even few thousand euros per night. If you don’t mind spending this money and you’re looking for a luxury getaway or maybe a special place for an anniversary or honeymoon I’d recommend Le Sirenuse – this place is a dream! Has beautiful rooms with private balconies, gorgeous restaurants, oyster bar, spa and an outdoor pool overlooking the coast.
Another pearl of Positano would be Villa Treville. Haven’t stayed there myself ( as I would probably need to rob a bank) but I’ve seen this place and it’s honestly breathtaking! Hopefully one day will be able to experience it myself!
However don’t worry if you can’t afford all that. There are plenty of beautiful guest houses and airbnb options in Positano too. Have a look at Hotel Savoia or Pensione Casa Guadagnoo – they also have a central location, private little balconies and traditional colorful, ceramic flooring. You can easily find some rooms for even less than 80-100 pound a night with a free wifi, free parking and what’s more important – big Italian breakfast included( ahhh priceless! )
WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK?
The first place I’ll mention is basically the first place I’ve discovered while hanging around little streets of Positano- Hotel Palazzo Murat. What caught my attention was pretty vases and lots of tropical plants around its entrance. As you walk-in , believe me- you will fall in love for the first sight. This place is a real paradise, tiny oasis tucked away in the heart of busy, touristic city. I loved its interior, elegant furnitures, ocean- colored cushions and smell of flowers all over the place. Ohh, almost forgot to mention the breathtaking views over the famous Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta. It’s a perfect spot for either a morning coffee, an afternoon cocktail or a romantic candle-light dinner.
Finding the place to have lunch has been a challenge as I was in love with every single restaurant I’ve passed. However apart from beautiful design I had to have a look at the menu properly ( not easy if you have a Neapolitan chef by your side). It took us a while but we stopped at the restaurant Chez Black located right on the beach as it fulfilled both of the conditions. If you’re a seafood lover that’s a perfect place for you. We started with octopus carpaccio, then had a delicious seafood risotto, and mouth-watering, perfectly- cooked linguine. The portions were pretty big. I found it a pretty good value considering it’s charming seaside location and really beautiful stylish interior. Obsessed with with their colorful sea life-themed tableware.
What would be a stay in Positano without stopping somewhere romantic to admire the Amalfian sunset? From all the places I’ve seen the one I liked the most was Franco’s bar located right next to Le Sirenuse hotel. I adored its colors, design, music and a simple old-fashion drinks menu. There are few sea front little tables – we were lucky to get of of them without making any reservation- couldn’t imagine a better place to watch the sun goes down. I’ve forgotten the entire world!
HOW TO GET AROUND?
Positano is a small city and I think the best way to feel its magic is discovering it on foot, however if you’re not a fan of walking up and down and you’d like to explore a bit more of Amalfi Coast renting a scooter would be a good idea. The rental cost around 40-50 euros a day- please note that prices may vary due to the season.
What can’t be missed in Positano?
Getting a white little dress. I named it ‘ Positano dress’ – white, delicate, crochet, boho style perfect for strolling in style in the Amalfian heat. Positano is full of little cute fashion boutiques. However this outdoor one was my absolutely favorite! Isn’t gorgeous?
- Visiting art galleries. Positano is a perfect place for art lovers. You can see art galleries and street artists on every single corner. Most of them were free of charge so if you love art as much as I do you definitely need to have a look!
- Buying their outstanding ceramics. Visit Ceramica Assent for the most beautiful, traditional Positano artistic hand made ceramic. Perfect idea for a souvenir or a gift for someone.
- Eating lots of gelatos and granita ( Italian semi-frozen dessert made from sugar, water and various flavorings) . Lemon and orange were my 2 favorite ones!
- Taking photos- yes, stop everywhere and take thousand of pictures of everything and everyone around you. Don’t forget that you’re in the most picturesque and photogenic town on Earth and it’s you who just made the dream of most of the travel bloggers came true! Photos just can’t go wrong here!
- Renting a boat. There’s nothing more relaxing than going around and soaking in the Italian sun. For more adventurous types there are many grottos and caves to discover. You can rent the boat on the beach. The small boats I’ve seen cost around 40-50 euros per hour.
- 7. Visiting Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta. I’ve seen many churches, but there is something special about this one and it’s definitely not just about its pretty colorful majolica-tiled dome. Getting married there became such a dream, ahhh!
- Hiking the Path of Gods! Not the easiest walk but I am hundred percent sure the views will pay off!
- Drinking coffee. Well actually having more coffee than usual… Yes, they do drink even up to 10 espressos a day ( even at night!) Well, we should go easy on that if we’re not used to it and don’t want to end up with a heart attack, but why not to try to be a bit Italian and go to the local bar just for a little chat and quick shot of coffee on the run? (called in Italian ‘al volo’)
- Improving your Italian. Yes, be a Julia Robert and be brave enough to order your meal in Italian! I’ve done it myself and I am sure it sounded absolutely hilarious but I’ve been feeling happy, satisfied and made a server smile.
TOURS AROUND
Positano is not the only one pearl of Amalfi Coast. All the cities around are worth visiting so if you have a car rented don’t think twice and go exploring! The second famous and absolutely beautiful city that can’t be missed is Amalfi. It’s less than 45 minutes drive and it has so much beauty to offer. You definitely should add it to your list. However think outside the box- all Amalfi Coast is stunning ( even the cities that you have probably never heard about like Vietri, Ravello or Minori) , so if you’d love a real Italian adventure I would suggest a road trip along the whole coast and stopping for a bit in each little city. We’ve done that and it was honestly unforgettable. It doesn’t get any better than driving around in the sunset light with your favorite tune on.
If you have no car rented there is nothing to worry about. There are many travel agencies at the beach or city centre who you can book your Amalfi Coast tours with, or you can also get it organised at your hotel. Be smart and compare the prices first!
If idea of going around by car or bus doesn’t seem ideal – believe me I understand perfectly as the roads are truly mental- you can also book a boat trip to stunning Capri Island, which is less than an hour away. The boat leaves from Positano Beach (Spiagga Grande) everyday at 9.30am – please note the time and frequency may change due to seasonality, so double check it before your trip.
I must admit that my stay in Positano felt unreal until the day I left. Never missed any sunsets that much and never felt so empty after any trip. Positano is simply a dream that you wish would last forever. It’s a true jewel to visit and a perfect place to create memories that last a lifetime.